| Time Driver Cityscape |
Vehicle Racing and Urban Adventure Rules for Miniatures
|
|
All content is copyright of its respective owner/ contributor to this website
|
|
by
Terry Cabak
Imagine Image Multimedia
The
first thing that was done to construct the future cityscape was to acquire the
basic building blocks of the landscape itself, meaning the structures that would
be turned into buildings then using the computer, sketch out some ideas.
Prior to constructing the buildings, a determination was made as to the scale chosen for the game design.
This
meant a middle scale of sizes and buildings and figures had to be reached, but
we knew that 28mm figures were all the rage and that HO scale and 1/72 was not
sufficient as it didn’t offer street and urban fighters other than Chechyn
Rebels in 1/72 and conversions of Airfix Civilians, as well as HO scale
railroading figures of which there are innumerous variety.
The
table was destined to be 5 x 5 feet which is the average game convention size,
allowing for 3 feet on the end to store and show cars and figures to the
players.
Most
of this was precluded by research into the decorations that would also be
available such as light poles, street signs, billboards etc., that would yield
and attractive layout.
Again, the many buildings on sale at local craft stores for the model railroading hobby were too good to ignore; many dollars that were used for figures were saved by shopping around or stopping in when passing by, and especially this was true of acquiring Foam Core in ¼ or 3/16 thickness for the city blocks, walls, and elevated highway.
Due
to the likelihood that street signs would break from playing the game, the
decision was made to make them “break-away,” that is, simply putting them
onto the city streets and sidewalks with Sticky Tac adhesive putty.
And
even these acquisitions were precluded by the fact that the rules themselves
would state how far something would move in pulse of the turn, and this was
determined to be business card space which the vehicles where then mounted on.
All
the wall and brick patterns and sidewalks, signs, paintings etc. were designed
in Canvas for the PC; doors, windows, graffiti etc. while images for billboards
were obtained from the internet.
Once
the boxes and found materials were collected, the art was printed onto normal
paper both on a laser and color inkjet printer, adhesive was applied and the
paper was then applied to the cardboard boxes that would become the buildings.
In
order to shore up their strength, balsa dowel was used in corners and along the
roof, and for the appearance of rooftop equipment, wood pieces and stuff from
every modeler’s bits box were used; doors, elevator shaft, antenna,
ventilation etc.
A
color print testing phase resulted in having to make the appliqué art somewhat
brighter than what might
normally be seen in real life because the art would be dulled down with
protective acrylic spray coating from the craft store.
Once these colors were determined everything was set to go and the artwork of an outside stairwell art from the Imagine Image Archive was used as well; printed directly onto the brick pattern of a wall. After this a series blank texture pages were printed so I would have the flexibility of not having a window on a wall when I needed to strip the appliqué onto a box; I would then print a sheet of windows, doors etc. and apply them separately.

A
lot of this production was precluded by the various types of adhesives available
and for this it was determined that spray glue was prohibitive, and that the
stickiness of using spray glue caused a lot of transfer onto the hands and this
caused dirt to be transferred to the artwork.
Again,
the self adhesive tape of the Xyron label maker was perfect and of course we
knew this, but the Xyron was only 5 inches wide and full sheets couldn’t be
done; to save this, full sheet adhesive transfer paper was obtained from the
craft store again.
As
you would expect, a Glue Stick was also used in many cases and the one in stock
was the purple colored glue so we could see exactly where it was being applied. For small items being applied to smooth surfaces, the glue
stick was essential. For larger
areas we simply used straight-up Elmer’s white and Titebond yellow glue
because like wallpaper, the wet high tack was a requirement.
Where
required however, spray glue was still utilized especially for the full size
paper brick pattern pages, because the transfer paper was going to be expensive
and the Xyron label cartridge ran out; these are somewhat hard to find at local
stores.
Also
note that because the various cardboard boxes contain folding covers like on the
top of a cereal box, some of these had to be trimmed back or completely off and
then applied to the foam core using a Glue Gun.
It's important to note that the style of glue gun must provide for the
nipple to be a good distance away from the body such that small areas could be
reached.
All
of this cityscape was going to applied to a black-painted sheet of normal
canvas, primed for artists, which is how we are doing all our battlefields from
now on; that’s right- we’re actually painting the colors we want by hand;
and painting all the roads and rivers as well.
The
6-foot tall roll of canvas was rolled out onto the folding game tables, and then
like a wall, painted black with normal latex wall paint from Home Depot. 
The
last hurdle was obtaining pin striping tape from Chartpak, just like we used to
use back in the day before computers came along for doing advertisements and
drawings. The white line tape would
be perfect for street lines, and yellow was also recently discovered too, so
after all this we are finally ready in time for RockCon, Oct. 23-25 in Rockford
Illinois.
The game should be simple and uncomplicated, so kids should have a great time racing both in the arena and having adventures in this new cityscape.