Game Process & Procedures

Regardless of era, it should be noted that the roster posts being applied via Sticky-Tack to unit bases, can just as well be applied to commanders and the o-rings made to represent various conditions of a brigade and division.

Yellow: Each regiment routed. For each routed -1 pip on initiative

White: Each failed CVS change attempt. At 3 rings he can make no more change attempts.

Red: Each time it is rolled to see if he is hit. At 3 rings he is automatically removed as "exhausted" but equally, at any red indicator is +1 combat and +1 morale (sphere diameter).

Green: Each time he pushes his regiments faster than normal speed (forced marching). At 3 rings the brigade is "exhausted" and must not move for one full turn else -1 combat and -1 distance move until rested.

Blue: Each time one of his regiments has a success. At any…

As more and more emphasis is being placed on smaller game tables, for us at least with the advent of our new service called Battlefield Design Services and our 4x3 maps (larger are available), it may be required for most situations, that the owner of a moving unit take the time to write the number of the destination hex for a unit's movement ... hence the fact the hexagons are numbered. The reason for this is that on this small a table with these larger figures, unless you reduce all movement to just one hex per turn, units are going to get into firing range very quickly and games are going to end very quickly too. On 6x4 and 8x5 maps and game tables however, there is less concern.

Be sure to check out the Convention rules for all Hex Command rules, as recent changes have occurred that may not be included in the actual rules. These rules may in fact be the ONLY way you play Hex Command going forward, and use the actual rules only for reference.

PDF demonstrates that in order to get to 1 inch high, you don't have to make a hill look like hexes UNDER the top layer; just concentrate on making the top layer and radiate outwards successive layers of foamcore until you get to one inch high, or higher. But remember, the higher you go the more the layers radiate outward. Glue the layers with wood glue and weigh down during drying (4 hours for large hills) with power tools. Make sure when putting on the layers they don't slip during the drying process so use good weights and FLAT surface. If the top layer of hex shape is 1/4 inch, then only three 1/4 inch foamcore layers will be needed to get to a total of one inch.

Remember, all your terrain must be height-wise accordingly; for 1/72 figures (other than WW2 and NOVA) we do not have trees or…